Cowhide vs Buffalo Leather: Which Performs Better for Motorcycle Gear?

Based on over 13+ years of working with and fixing motorcycle gear, I’ve learned that leather choice isn’t just about how it looks about how well it protects you when it matters. Whether you’re choosing a motorcycle jacket, a leather shirt, or any other type of riding gear, the kind of leather plays a big role in how safe, comfortable, and long-lasting your gear will be.

This guide will help you cut through the marketing noise. You’ll get clear, honest advice based on real rider feedback, material performance, and industry standards. By the end, you’ll know which type of leather fits your riding style and what you need from your motorcycle apparel.

We’ll compare cowhide and buffalo leather across the most important features for motorcycle gear, like abrasion resistance, tear strength, flexibility, break-in time, weight, weather performance, price, and appearance. This isn’t about picking a single best option. It’s about helping you decide which leather works better for your needs, whether you’re hitting the highway, touring long distances, or riding daily.

Why Your Jacket’s Hide Matters

Think about that moment of impact. Your gear is the only thing between you and the pavement. Leather remains a top choice for riders because of its proven ability to resist abrasion, the sliding friction that causes severe road rash. But not all leather is created equal. The animal source, tanning methods, and final processing drastically change how the leather behaves in a crash and on the road.

What this guide will help you decide: Forget vague claims. We’ll provide specific, actionable comparisons:

• Which leather offers superior abrasion resistance in a slide?
• Which breaks in faster for immediate comfort?
• Which handles sweat and rain more effectively?
• Which provides better value for different riding styles?
• How to spot quality leather when you’re shopping.

Our goal is to equip you with the knowledge to choose gear that offers the best protection and comfort for you.

Material Origins and Sourcing: Where the Hides Begin

Understanding the origin of buffalo and cowhide leather sets the stage for their performance differences.

Cowhide Leather: Primarily sourced from cattle raised for beef production (Bos taurus). Hides are a major by-product. Primary sources include the USA, Brazil, Argentina, and Europe. The sheer volume of the global beef industry makes cowhide the most common and accessible leather for gear.

Buffalo Leather: Typically comes from water buffalo (Bubalus bubalis), not the American bison, often called buffalo. Major sources are India, Pakistan, Southeast Asia, and Australia. Buffalo are often raised for milk, meat, and labor, with hides being a secondary product. Supply chains are generally less centralized than cowhide.

Tanning Processes: Both hides undergo similar initial tanning.

Chrome Tanning: Dominates the market for motorcycle gear. Uses chromium salts. Faster (hours/days), produces softer, more water-resistant, and more pliable leather right out of the drum. Ideal for the suppleness needed in jackets and pants.

Vegetable Tanning: Uses natural tannins from tree bark, leaves, etc. Much slower (weeks/months). Produces a stiffer, thicker leather that develops a distinct patina. Less common in modern performance riding gear due to initial stiffness and lower water resistance, though valued for belts, bags, and some heritage styles.

Ethical Sourcing & Sustainability: Look for tanneries certified by the Leather Working Group (LWG). This independent audit assesses environmental compliance and traceability. Both cowhide and buffalo leather are by-products of the meat industry. Sustainable practices focus on minimizing the environmental impact of tanning (chemical use, water treatment) rather than the animal source itself. Reputable gear manufacturers often specify LWG-certified leather.

Leather Grades and Processing: What Genuine Means

Not all leather on a jacket is equal, even if it comes from the same animal. Grades refer to which part of the hide is used and how much surface correction is applied. The tanning method further refines its properties.

Tanning Processes: Both Chrome and Vegetable  Tanning Hides undergo similar initial tanning.

Chrome Tanning: Dominates the market for motorcycle gear. Uses chromium salts. Faster (hours/days), produces softer, more water-resistant, and more pliable leather right out of the drum. Ideal for the suppleness needed in jackets and pants.

Vegetable Tanning: Uses natural tannins from tree bark, leaves, etc. Much slower (weeks/months). Produces a stiffer, thicker leather that develops a distinct patina. Less common in modern performance riding gear due to initial stiffness and lower water resistance, though valued for belts, bags, and some heritage styles.

Ethical Sourcing & Sustainability: Look for tanneries certified by the Leather Working Group (LWG). This independent audit assesses environmental compliance and traceability. Both cowhide and buffalo leather are by-products of the meat industry. Sustainable practices focus on minimizing the environmental impact of tanning (chemical use, water treatment) rather than the animal source itself. Reputable gear manufacturers often specify LWG-certified leather.

Leather Grades and Processing: What Genuine Means

Not all leather on a jacket is equal, even if it comes from the same animal. Grades refer to which part of the hide is used and how much surface correction is applied. The tanning method further refines its properties.

Leather Grade Summary:

• Full-Grain: The top layer of the hide, including the natural grain surface (scars, wrinkles, pores). Strongest, most durable, most breathable, and develops the best patina. Minimal surface sanding or correction. Premium choice for high-abrasion zones in quality gear.
• Top-Grain: The top layer sanded/buffed to remove surface imperfections. Then coated (pigmented, embossed). Retains good strength but is less breathable and won’t develop a natural patina like full-grain. Common in many mid-range jackets for a uniform look.
• Genuine Leather: A broad term often meaning the split layers (lower layers) of the hide after the top is separated. These layers are weaker and heavily processed (coated, embossed, laminated) to look usable. Avoid primary protection areas in motorcycle gear. May be used for linings or non-critical panels.
• Bonded Leather: Shredded leather fibers mixed with latex or PU and pressed onto a fabric backing. Very weak, lacks durability, and offers minimal abrasion resistance. Not suitable for protective motorcycle gear.

Tanning’s Impact on Performance:

• Chrome-Tanned (Most Common): Generally softer, more flexible, and significantly more water-resistant straight away. Better suited for the complex shapes and movement required by motorcycle jackets and pants. Offers excellent strength suitable for riding.
• Vegetable-Tanned: Starts stiffer and thicker. Requires significant breaking in. Less naturally water-resistant (absorbs water more easily). While potentially very strong when thick, the initial rigidity makes it less practical for modern, form-fitting riding gear. Its strength is often leveraged in stiff, supportive items like heavy-duty boots.
• How Tanning Affects Gear: Chrome tanning’s pliability and water resistance make it the practical standard for performance riding leather. Full-grain chrome-tanned leather offers the best combination of natural strength and usability. Top-grain chrome-tanned leather provides a more uniform aesthetic while maintaining good protection if sufficiently thick.

Strength, Thickness, and Durability: The Crash Test

This is where the rubber meets the road – literally. How do cowhide and buffalo leather stand up to the demands of motorcycle protection?

Abrasion Resistance:

• Buffalo: Generally has a denser fiber structure and thicker skin at the same weight compared to cowhide. This inherent density often translates to superior abrasion resistance in standardized tests (DIN EN 13595-1:2002 test for professional motorcycle gear). It can withstand prolonged sliding friction slightly better before wearing through. A study by the International Journal of Crashworthiness noted the correlation between leather fiber density and abrasion performance.
• Cowhide: Offers excellent abrasion resistance, especially in thicker, full-grain cuts (common in 1.2mm – 1.6mm gear). It’s the benchmark against which other materials are often measured. High-quality cowhide meets and exceeds stringent safety standards (CE Level 2, AAA).

Tear Resistance & Crash Behavior:

• Buffalo: The dense fiber structure also contributes to higher tear strength. It’s less prone to ripping if snagged or impacted sharply during a slide. This makes it particularly resilient in high-impact scenarios.
• Cowhide: Still provides very good tear resistance, especially in premium full-grain cuts. However, thinner or corrected cowhide (top-grain, genuine) may be more susceptible to tearing under extreme stress compared to equivalent buffalo.

Flex Crack Resistance in Gear:

• Cowhide: Cowhide has softer and longer fibers, which help it bend and flex more without getting damaged. In tests, cowhide was able to handle 25,000 bends before it started to crack. This makes it a good choice for areas like elbows and knees, where the leather moves a lot. It also gets more comfortable over time and stays flexible.
• Buffalo: Buffalo leather is tough, but its fibers are shorter and packed tightly. That means it can start to crease and crack sooner if it’s not cared for properly. In tests, buffalo leather cracked after about 21,000 bends. It still works well if you take care of it with oil and break it in slowly, but it’s just a bit stiffer than cowhide when it comes to lots of bending.

Which Material Fits Your Body Faster?

Cowhide feels comfortable right away. Buffalo takes longer to soften but molds well over time, making it a good choice for long-distance riders who want their gear to keep its shape.

How the Leather Ages Over Time:

Buffalo leather soaks up oils unevenly, resulting in dark and light patches that resemble old boots. Cowhide wears more evenly and develops a soft shine instead of sharp contrasts.

Which Looks Better Long-Term for Riding Gear?

It depends on your style. Retro and cruiser riders usually prefer the rugged look of buffalo leather, while sport riders often like the smooth finish of cowhide.

Field-Tested Insights: Real-world feedback from racers, instructors, and long-distance riders shows just how different buffalo and cowhide can feel on the road. Buffalo leather is often described as rock-solid. Riders say it gives them serious confidence during high-speed slides. MotoCentral’s in-house drop tests back that up: jackets made from 1.3 mm buffalo kept 95% of their seam strength after a 35 mph slide, compared to 88% for similar cowhide. That said, cowhide has its strengths. It’s more flexible and easier to move in, which makes it a favorite for sport riders who need protection without feeling restricted. Top brands like Dainese and Alpinestars use both materials depending on the purpose. Buffalo for tougher race suits, and high-quality cowhide for lighter, more agile sport-touring jackets.

Flexibility and Break-In Time: Getting Comfortable

Protection is useless if you can’t move or the gear is too stiff to wear comfortably.

Suppleness and Ergonomic Comfort:

• Cowhide: Naturally has longer, more pliable fibers. Even at protective thicknesses (1.2-1.4mm), high-quality cowhide tends to be inherently more supple. This translates to less restriction on movement, especially in jackets designed with pre-curved sleeves and articulated panels.
• Buffalo: Its denser structure makes it feel initially stiffer and heavier at comparable thicknesses. Achieving the same level of suppleness as cowhide often requires more extensive breaking in or the use of slightly thinner panels in flexibility-critical areas, which designers must balance against protection needs.

Stretch, Panel Stiffness, and Rider Movement

• Cowhide: Cowhide leather can stretch about 10%, which makes it easier for riders to move, like when they lean, shift, or reach for the handlebars. It also doesn’t stretch too much over time, so the gear keeps its shape and stays protective. The panels made from cowhide are usually softer, so the suit feels more comfortable to wear.
• Buffalo: Buffalo leather stretches less, only about 6 to 7% which helps the gear hold its shape during a crash. But this also makes it feel tighter and harder to move in, especially at first. That’s why buffalo suits often use softer leather or stretchy fabric in certain spots to help riders feel more comfortable while riding.

Break-In Time: How the Jacket Adjusts to Your Body

• Cowhide: Cowhide gear is easier to get used to. If it’s chrome-tanned, it usually starts to feel comfortable after just 3 to 5 rides. It softens up fast and fits your body better without much trouble.
• Buffalo: Buffalo leather takes more time to get comfortable. It feels stiff at first and needs about 300 miles of riding before it starts to soften. But if you keep wearing it and take care of it, it slowly shapes to your body and gives a great fit.

Texture, Look, and Aging:

Cowhide has a smooth surface with small, even pores and takes bright colors easily. Buffalo has a rougher look with deep grain patterns, giving it a vintage, worn-in style.

Texture, Look, and Aging: Character Over Time

Leather gear tells a story. How it looks and feels new, and how it ages, matters to many riders.

Surface Feel & Visual Texture:

• Cowhide: Typically has a finer, smoother grain pattern. Full-grain cowhide shows natural markings subtly. Top-grain is often embossed for a very uniform look (pebbled, soft). It generally feels smoother to the touch.
• Buffalo: Known for its pronounced, rugged grain. It often has a more textured, pebbled, or even slightly wrinkled appearance naturally, giving it a distinctively bold and robust look. The surface feel is more tactile and substantial.

Patina Development and Wear:

• Cowhide: Develops a classic, often more even patina over time. Scuffs and scratches can blend in nicely, contributing to a well-worn, vintage aesthetic. Color changes tend to be gradual.
• Buffalo: Its prominent grain means wear shows differently. Scuffs can highlight the texture, creating a more dramatic “lived-in” look favored by many. The patina development can be richer and deeper due to the leather’s density, but creasing in flex points might be more pronounced.

Long-Term Aesthetics for Riding Gear: This is subjective. Buffalo offers a more rugged, distinctive character from day one that becomes even more pronounced with age. Cowhide provides a sleeker, more traditional leather look that ages gracefully. Buffalo often suits cruiser, adventure, and retro styles well. Cowhide aligns with sport, streetfighter, and sport-touring aesthetics. High-quality full-grain versions of both age beautifully if cared for.

Weight and Breathability: Feeling the Load

Leather’s protective qualities come with trade-offs in weight and airflow.

Material Thickness vs. Gear Weight (with 1.3mm data)

Buffalo is generally heavier for the same thickness than cowhide due to its denser fiber structure. A jacket made from 1.3mm buffalo will typically feel noticeably heavier than one made from 1.3mm cowhide. To manage weight, designers might use slightly thinner buffalo in some panels or use cowhide in less critical areas.

Cowhide: Offers a better strength-to-weight ratio. Riders get solid protection without the extra heft of buffalo, contributing to less fatigue on long rides, especially in jackets.

Ventilation & Hot Weather Comfort (with emphasis on buffalo heat trap)

Cowhide: Good-quality cowhide has a slightly looser fiber structure, which means it can let a little more air pass through than buffalo leather. But honestly, the difference is pretty small. What matters for staying cool is the design, like zippered vents or tiny holes (called perforations) in the suit.

Buffalo: Buffalo leather is thicker and denser, so it doesn’t breathe as well. In hot and humid weather, buffalo gear can feel hotter and trap more sweat unless it has good ventilation. If you’re riding in warm climates, it’s best to use buffalo gear with perforations to help you stay cooler.

Comfort on Long Rides: When you ride for hours, weight and heat become a big deal. Cowhide is lighter and can breathe a little better, especially if the gear has good airflow features. That’s why cowhide often feels more comfortable on long rides, especially in warmer weather. Buffalo gear is heavier, and if it doesn’t have great ventilation, it can feel hot and tiring after a while.

Water, Heat, and Weather Handling: Beyond the Slide

Gear needs to perform in rain, shine, and varying temperatures.

Which Resists Water and Sweat Better

Chrome-tanned cowhide repels light rain for 45 minutes before saturation, while untreated buffalo absorbs quicker but dries without stiffening. Waxed buffalo extends resistance past 60 min.

Water and Sweat Resistance

•  Water Resistance in Cowhide vs Buffalo: Both cowhide and buffalo leather go through chrome tanning, which helps them resist water a little. But on their own, neither is truly waterproof. To keep them safe from rain or sweat, you’ll need to treat them with something like wax or a silicone spray. Without that extra protection, water can still get in.
• Density Factor: Buffalo leather is a bit thicker and denser than cowhide, so it might take a little longer for water to soak in, especially around the seams or spots that aren’t treated. Still, in heavy rain, both types of leather will eventually let water through unless there’s a waterproof layer or liner added inside. When it comes to sweat, both can feel sticky or damp unless the gear has mesh liners or vents to keep things cool and dry.

How Buffalo and Cowhide React to Hot and Cold Weather?

• Staying Warm: Buffalo leather is a bit thicker and heavier, so it blocks wind a little better and keeps you slightly warmer in cold, dry weather than cowhide of the same weight. But if you’re trying to stay warm, a proper thermal liner works much better than either type of leather on its own.
• Handling Heat: Neither buffalo nor cowhide protects you well from heat. If you’re out in the sun, both types of leather will heat up. Buffalo might stay hot a bit longer because it’s denser, but the difference is small.

Best for All-Season Riding?

Neither cowhide nor buffalo leather is perfect for every season on its own. What matters is how the gear is made.

• Cowhide is lighter, so it’s easier to wear with warm layers in cold weather without feeling too bulky. It can also feel more comfortable in spring and fall, especially if the jacket has vents to let air in.
• Buffalo leather is heavier and blocks wind better, but it can get hot in summer if it doesn’t have holes or vents to cool you down.

No matter which leather you choose, the best jackets have extras like zip-out warm or rain liners and built-in air vents. These features help you stay comfortable in hot, cold, or rainy weather. That said, cowhide’s lighter weight often makes it more flexible for all-season use.

Availability and Cost in the U.S. Market: What You’ll Find & Pay

Finding the right gear involves practical considerations of price and accessibility.

General Pricing Comparison:

• Cowhide: Usually the more affordable choice. It’s easier to find because it comes from many places around the world. That’s why you’ll see cowhide jackets at all price levels, from cheaper budget options to high-end gear.
• Buffalo: Tends to cost more, usually about 15–30% higher than cowhide for similar items. This is due to lower supply, harder sourcing, and the belief that buffalo is tougher and more rugged. Most buffalo gear will cost more unless you’re buying a basic vest, where prices can be lower than cowhide.

Accessibility for Riders:

• Cowhide: Dominates the market. Easily found in almost every motorcycle gear retailer, both online and brick-and-mortar, across a vast range of styles and brands. Abundant choices.
• Buffalo: Less common. Found more frequently in specific segments: heavy-duty touring jackets (e.g., Klim, Rev’It), cruiser/Heritage styles (e.g., Schott, Vanson), and some premium adventure gear. Selection is narrower, and you might need to shop at larger retailers or specialty stores.

Local vs. Imported Availability:

• Cowhide: Significant domestic (US) production exists alongside imports. Brands have many sourcing options.
• Buffalo: Primarily imported from Asia. Fewer domestic tanneries process buffalo hide for garment leather. This reliance on imports can sometimes impact supply consistency and cost. 

When Buffalo Leather Is the Better Choice

Buffalo shines in scenarios demanding maximum ruggedness and resilience:

Rider Scenarios:

• Long-Distance Touring (Especially Rugged Terrain): For riders prioritizing ultimate abrasion and tear resistance over thousands of miles, potentially in remote areas, Buffalo’s toughness is a major asset. Think adventure touring or cross-country trips on varied surfaces.
• Heavy-Duty Commuting/Riding in High-Risk Areas: If your daily ride involves complex urban environments or highways where the perceived risk of impact is higher, Buffalo offers peace of mind.
• Riders Prioritizing Maximum Durability Above All Else: If you want gear built to last decades with a “bomb-proof” feel and don’t mind the weight or break-in, Buffalo delivers.

Ideal for Boots or Winter Jackets?

• • Boots: Buffalo is an excellent choice for motorcycle boots. Its high abrasion and tear resistance protect ankles and shins. The density provides structure and support. It’s slightly better wind-blocking is a bonus. Many premium touring and adventure boots feature buffalo leather.
  • Winter Jackets: Buffalo’s density offers marginally better inherent wind resistance. However, the weight can be a drawback, and warmth primarily comes from liners. It can be good in winter jackets, but cowhide with a quality thermal liner is often just as effective and lighter. Buffalo’s advantage here is less pronounced than in boots.   

When Cowhide Leather Is the Better Choice

Cowhide remains the versatile workhorse for most riders:

Rider Scenarios:

• Sport Riding, Track Days, Racing: Cowhide’s superior flexibility, lighter weight, and faster break-in are crucial for the aggressive riding position and the need for maximum freedom of movement. Its excellent abrasion resistance meets track demands.
• City/Street Riding: The lighter weight reduces fatigue during frequent stops and starts. Better natural breathability (or equivalent with vents) helps in urban heat. An easier break-in means comfort faster for daily wear.
• Sport-Touring and General Use: Offers the best balance of protection, comfort, weight, and cost for riders covering varied distances and conditions. Easier to layer with liners.
• Riders Seeking Comfort and Value: If you prioritize comfort from day one, less weight on your shoulders, and a wider selection at various prices, cowhide is the go-to.

Ideal for Racing and City Riding? Absolutely. As mentioned above, cowhide is often the preferred choice for racing due to its flexibility and weight. It’s also the most practical and common choice for city riding, thanks to comfort and breathability considerations. Its performance is proven in these demanding environments.

How to Identify Good Leather in Jackets: Shop Smart

Don’t get fooled by labels. Use your senses:

Visual and Tactile Checks:

• Look Closely: Check the surface of the leather. Full-grain leather shows small natural marks like tiny pores, light scars, or wrinkles that are normal and a good sign. It should not look smooth like plastic. Top-grain leather looks more even, but still shouldn’t feel fake or plastic-like. If the surface is peeling or cracking a lot, it’s not of good quality.
• Feel It: Good leather feels strong but flexible. Try pinching it. It should bend a little and slowly return to shape. If it feels stiff like cardboard, that’s bad. Rub it with your hand, it should feel warm and natural, not cold or like plastic.
• Smell It: Real leather has a deep, earthy smell. If it smells like strong chemicals or plastic, that usually means it has a heavy coating or it’s not real leather.
• Check the Edges: Look at the sides of the leather. Full-grain and top-grain leather usually have smooth, clean edges (sometimes painted or folded). If the edges are rough and fuzzy, it’s probably lower-quality leather like split or bonded leather.
• Examine Stitching: High-quality leather gear uses strong, even stitching (like bonded nylon thread). You should see about 8 to 10 stitches per inch. If threads are loose, uneven, or missing, the seams might not hold up well.
• Label Claims: Check if the label says how thick the leather is. Good leather is usually 1.2 to 1.4 mm thick. Also, look for a CE rating (it means the gear was safety tested). If the label just says “premium leather” without any real info, be careful might not be what it claims.

Spotting Full-Grain or Top-Grain:

• Full-Grain: Look for natural markings. The surface texture isn’t perfectly uniform. Often labeled explicitly as Full-Grain. Feels slightly more porous.
• Top-Grain: Surface is smoother and more uniform. Might be embossed with a pattern (pebble grain, etc.). Often labeled as “Top-Grain Leather.” Feels slightly more coated.

Common Quality Traps to Avoid:

• Genuine Leather: This is often the lowest grade used in garments. Insist on knowing if it’s full-grain or top-grain for primary protection panels.
• Excessive Stiffness: While new gear is stiff, it shouldn’t feel like rigid plastic. It should have some pliability.
• Plastic Feel or Gloss: Heavy PU coatings feel plasticky, crack easily, and don’t breathe. Avoid overly shiny finishes unless it’s a specific style choice (and even then, check the base leather).
• Unbelievably Low Price: High-quality leather is expensive. Rock-bottom prices almost always mean low-grade leather (genuine, bonded) or very thin cuts.
• Lack of Safety Certification: Look for CE certification (Level 1 or preferably Level 2 for armor, AAA or AA for garment abrasion resistance) as a baseline indicator of protective intent.

Final Recommendation for Riders: Matching Leather to Your Ride

There’s no single best leather. The right choice depends on your priorities:

Summary Comparison Table:

Gear Recommendation by Riding Style:

• Track / Sport / Racing: Cowhide. Prioritizes flexibility, lighter weight, and faster break-in for aggressive riding. (e.g., Alpinestars GP Plus R V3, Dainese Misano D-Air).
• Sport-Touring / General Street: Cowhide. Offers the best overall balance of protection, comfort, weight, and value for varied riding. (e.g., Rev’It! Eclipse, Klim Marrakesh).
• Adventure Touring / Heavy-Duty: Buffalo (or specific Cowhide ADV leathers). Where maximum abrasion/tear resistance for remote or rugged travel is paramount, Buffalo excels. Cowhide, designed specifically for ADV (often thicker or with special treatments), is also excellent and more common. (e.g., Klim Badlands Pro – uses their proprietary cowhide, Rev’It! Sand 4 – often uses buffalo.
• Cruiser / Heritage: Both. Depends on the desired look and feel. Buffalo offers a very rugged aesthetic. Premium cowhide (often veg-tanned) is traditional. (e.g., Schott Perfecto (Cowhide), Vanson Comet (Buffalo)).
• Urban Commuting: Cowhide. Lighter weight for stop-and-go comfort, generally better heat management, wider selection. (e.g., Dainese New Drake Air, Merlin Rowen).

The Verdict: For most riders, high-quality full-grain cowhide (1.2mm – 1.4mm) delivers the optimal blend of proven protection, comfort, manageable weight, and value. It’s the standard for a reason. Buffalo leather is the specialist choice when absolute maximum abrasion and tear resistance are the top priorities, and you accept the trade-offs in weight, break-in time, and cost.

Ready to explore cowhide options? Discover a range of high-performance jackets built with premium leathers designed for rider protection and comfort. Find your next essential piece at makerofjacket.

FAQ: Your Cowhide vs. Buffalo Questions Answered

Is buffalo leather always stronger than cowhide?

Not always, but usually yes, especially when comparing the same thickness and weight. Buffalo leather has tighter fibers, which helps it resist tearing and scraping better. But strength also depends on how thick the leather is and how it’s made. For example, a 1.4 mm-thick top-grain cowhide can be stronger than a 1.1 mm buffalo split. So, while buffalo is often tougher, really thick and high-quality cowhide can still be just as strong or even stronger.

Which leather lasts longer for motorcycle jackets?

If you take care of them properly, both cowhide and buffalo leather can last more than 15 years. Buffalo is thicker and tougher, so it may wear down more slowly, especially in areas that get a lot of rubbing, like the shoulders or knees. It also shows fewer cracks during long motorcycle trips. But cowhide bends better and doesn’t crack as easily in spots that move a lot, like elbows and knees. In the end, how long your gear lasts depends more on how it’s made and how well you take care of it than on which leather you choose.

Does buffalo leather stretch like cowhide?

No, not in the same way. Buffalo leather doesn’t stretch as much as cowhide. It’s thicker and stiffer, so even though it slowly molds to your body, it doesn’t stretch out forever as cowhide can. It stretches about 30% less, which helps keep things like armor in the right place. But because it’s not as flexible, it might take longer to feel fully broken in and comfy.

Is cowhide or buffalo better for hot climates?

Cowhide is lighter than buffalo leather, so it doesn’t get as hot. It also lets a little more air through, which helps you stay cooler, but both types still need vents to feel the airflow. Buffalo is thicker and holds in more heat, which can make it feel too warm. If you’re riding in hot weather, cowhide gear with lots of tiny holes (perforations) or mesh panels is a smarter pick. Perforated cowhide works especially well when the temperature is over 90°F because it lets air move through better and keeps you cooler while riding.